Gooseberry Falls is an easy walk down a paved trail. While this isn’t the largest waterfall I’ve seen (I think Multnomah Falls in the Columbia River Gorge probably holds that distinction for me at 200 feet), it was a pleasant walk and an enjoyable photo op.
According to the entry plaque at Split Rock Lighthouse – it is one of Minnesota’s most cherished landmarks.
I didn’t spend a lot of time at Split Rock Lighthouse (you could say I saw the lighthouse and split… groan.) The reason, at least for me, was that the hiking trails along Lake Superior had ugly chain link fences separating visitors from the foliage and lake shore. Maybe they get so many visitors in the summer they want to protect the landscape, but it creates an eyesore. Not an enjoyable hiking experience.
The view from Split Rock Lighthouse onto Lake Superior and the shoreline.
In addition to the Split Rock Lighthouse, I also slept in the Two Harbors Lighthouse (see previous post) … and I saw the Harbor Light in Duluth.
Duluth Harbor Light reflected in a puddle
One of the nicest features Duluth has is its “river walk” a long stretch of a winding pathway that runs right along the Lake Superior riverfront. At one end of the riverwalk you’ll find this harbor light.
Duluth Harbor light and sailboat – view from river walk
Of course for me, the very best view I had for my entire Minnesota trip was this one:
Three handsome nephews – the Army uniformed groom to the left, his little brother in the center, and his Navy uniformed brother to the right
My nephew is getting married this weekend in Minnesota. I haven’t seen him in awhile and when he called me to invite me, I was happy to say yes. It will be great to see him, meet his fiance and catch up with family members.
As long as I’m going to be in Minnesota, I thought, what should I do when I’m there? I began looking at a map and realized the northern shore of Lake Superior is within several hours drive of where the wedding is taking place. How could I resist?
If you’ve ever seen my photography site (http://cdeminskiphotos.shutterfly.com) you know I have a love of raw, natural scenery. The north shore of Lake Superior seems to be one of those wild spots where the waves from the lake crash ashore, waterfalls thunder with an abundance of Spring runoff and lighthouses dot the shoreline. I’m in!
I’ll tote my laptop along in case the writing mood strikes, but my primary tool of choice on this trip will be my camera. I hope the weather holds out and I don’t get rain or (gasp!) snow – and even though I expect it to be chilly (I’ll be a scant few miles from the Canadian border after all) I’m saying prayers now to the sun god.
If I’m lucky enough to get a WiFi signal or internet connection while I’m away, I’ll attempt a post, otherwise it may have to wait until I return with tales of the lake.
Hi everybody, I’ve composed my New Orleans photo page on my Shutterfly site.
While quite a few of the images appeared on my blog, they are scattered across numerous postings. My Shutterfly site has the photos all in the same spot, with quite a few images that did not make it onto the blog. I hope you’ll check them out.
Today was a sunny day with temperatures in the 70′s, I decided to head back to Audobon Park to enjoy the scenery and to take more photographs of the birds in the park since there is such an amazing variety.
Feathered friends - Audobon Park
It’s very relaxing to walk in Audobon Park, and I love seeing all the little kids on their bicycles or the people jogging or sitting on the benches. Although the park isn’t that large, you can do a “lap” by walking the path that circumnavigates the park and take in different views of the scenery from many angles.
Beautiful fountain
And there are tons of birds. The air is filled with quacking, squawking, chirping and all manner of bird calls.
Enjoying the sunshine - 3 turtles on a log and two ducks looking on
And the birds aren’t just in the water either. Sometimes they climb up onto the banks of the stream that runs through the park and take refuge in the shade of the bushes.
I call him the Ugly Duckling - he's got a face only his mother could love
And let’s not forget the herons who never cease to amaze me; they are so beautiful…
The heron - such a majestic bird
And it seems that the trees in the park are ancient; I love their twisted limbs.
Beautiful Tree - Audobon Park
Audon Park and St. Charles Ave. streetcar
the only thing better than one NoLa classic is two: Audobon Park and the St. Charles Avenue streetcar together.
In order to get to historic Algiers Point from New Orleans, you’ll need to take the Algiers Ferry. You can catch the ferry across Canal street from Harrah’s Casino.
TRAVEL TIP: As you approach the ferry entrance, you will see homeless people sitting on the steps, most drunk. You can avoid this entrance by continuing on towards the Mississippi River, walk over the streetcar tracks for the French Market streetcar and to your right you’ll see a ramped walkway marked “handicapped entrance.” When you get to the top of the walkway, go to your left and up the stairs into the ferry terminal.
I believe the best photographs of St. Louis Cathedral are to be had from the Algiers Ferry. You cannot get the entire cathedral in your shot if you are standing in Jackson Square – the Algiers Ferry shot gives you the entire building, and it is a beautiful view.
St Louis Cathedral - as seen from Algiers Ferry
The best reasons to go to Algiers are the historic homes, plus the Holy Name of Mary Church is picture worthy. A quick stop at the Tout-Suite Cafe across from the church is a great place to have lunch or a snack before heading back to the ferry.
If you do go to the Tout-Suite and you see a distinguished older gentleman with white hair at the counter, it’s probably George. He’s a local and a regular. He’s so friendly and helpful, make a few minutes to chat with him. You can’t help but be charmed!
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SAFETY: Only go during the day. Don’t wave your expensive camera around or flash your i-Phone 4. Don’t walk around texting or talking on the phone. Pay attention to your surroundings. Be alert and sensible, and have fun.
The first time I went to Algiers I was freaked out by the thuggish looking types I saw sizing up tourists on the ferry and hanging back in crowds watching everybody around them. I didn’t stray far from the ferry entrance and went back quickly. My second time, was a beautiful sunny day in the early afternoon, I felt relaxed, kind of knew my way around, and it was a much better experience.
I had no problems on either trip but for me, the second trip felt safer. Always trust your gut!
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An Algiers home adornment
Okay, so you’re probably wondering how charming the houses are… how about this one?
This Algiers home is picture postcard perfect!
So many of the houses I saw were like the one above – manicured landscape, well maintained and great looking paint to accentuate the architectural embellishments. You could pretend on some streets that you were in Bermuda, not New Orleans. I noticed tropical foliage seems more abundant on Algiers Point.
This Catholic church is pretty, you can practically see the spires of the church from the ferry.
Holy Name of Mary Church - Algiers Point
And if you want a place to stop and relax, I can think of no better spot than the Tout-Suite. This couple opted for the outdoor tables to drink their coffee, but the inside is just as charming.
Tout Suite Cafe - Algiers Point
I loved this old Gulf station too, which had a classic charm all its own. Check out those Spanish tiles on the roof of the gas station! And the slightly rusted orange Gulf sign is a piece of Americana.
Gulf Station - Algiers Point
Everywhere you look, people have decorated their homes so meticulously.
No amount of words can express how wonderful most of the people are here in New Orleans. A few encounters today encapsulate the best of my experiences.
I went out and did some shopping before the holiday, and as I walked down Magazine Street, I stopped to photograph a charming storefront. It was Probst Decorating and Interior Design. I liked their old time lanterns, potted plants and worn brick building combined with green holiday wreaths along with the requisite NoLa bicycles out front.
Probst Decorating - Magazine St
After taking the photo an older woman looked at me from inside the store – even though the sign on the door said Closed. I walked up to the door and wondered if I was in trouble for taking photos of her store. When I got to the door she said through the closed door, would you like to come in? Yes please, I answered. So she walked into her back workroom to get her door keys then back to the front of the store where she unlocked the door, let me in and started turning on all the lights.
I’m not open today, but I saw you wanted to come in. I don’t keep the door open when I’m here by myself, she said. That turned into a wonderful conversation about how her family has owned this 130 year old building and run this decorating shop in it for the last 60 years, and she has worked in it all 60 of those years. She told me about her mother opening the shop, and how after 60 years she is ready to turn things over to her daughter. She mentioned she makes all the pillows and curtains and is now referred to as “the lady that works in the back.” I joked with her that they only needed to call her one thing: Da Boss. She laughed at that. We said our warm goodbyes and she encouraged me to come back around sometime to visit.
I went across the street to pick up some groceries and walked to the bus stop to grab it going back home. A man approached and struck up a conversation with me while we waited together. He asked me if I was from New Orleans, because he thought I was. When I told him no, but that I’d been in town for about 2 weeks, he asked if I was staying for Mardi Gras. Unfortunately no, I said. That’s too bad, he answered, because I’m about ready to adopt you as a native once you been to your first Mardi Gras. And anyway, he continued, by the end of this conversation we’re gonna be just about family.
An extraordinary glimpse of Mardi Gras in December - pure luck!
And that sums it up for me: we’re all just about family – the human family. New Orleans can be such a great example of how people rise up to meet their humanity. The family of compassionate souls includes people like that woman, making pillows and curtains for 60 years running her decorating shop. Or the man at the bus stop, who got up early today to deliver donated toys to children on his way to work as a painter and said gently yes, he was a little tired. When he shook my hand with his paint covered hand, I felt like I’d never done an honest day’s work in my life.
New Orleans is a very special place, and I’m extremely glad I decided to come here and stay awhile. These vignettes and experiences in the neighborhoods are, I’m convinced, the real gumbo of NoLa with an extra helping of love.
Passion for clarinet
This is a collection of photos of the wonderful people of NoLa I’ve spotted in my wanderings here…please enjoy.
Tromboner salute
Of course the French Quarter is an endless source of wonderful images of musicians…
Singing her heart out on Royal
This gal sure could sing. She was belting it out without a mic. She projected loud and strong, along with her back up band doing a great job.
Slice of Life street scene - Bourbon St
The personality of New Orleans pours out of every brick and lantern in the city, and of course from the hard working people…
Workmen in the French Quarter
There are quiet moments when you can’t help but be charmed by such a place….
Resting by Traceys - Irish Channel
And take in so many smiles and good wishes…
Man with bowler and bicycle
…yes, these things and more are what gives New Orleans its flavor.
Enjoy this wonderfully moving song by Susan Tedeschi called 700 houses, her impressions of New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina…
Everywhere you look in New Orleans you’ll find scribbles, scrawls, grafitti and interesting street art. I took some of the shots I got and made up a little story.
If the Angry Birds had NoLa cousins, these would be them.
These grafitti birds (above) were on the side of a building on Magazine Street. I imagine they have names like Earl or Bobby Joe, and they’re probably the NoLa cousins of the Angry Birds (who are city slickers.) The NoLa birds aren’t as angry as they are mean; they’re so mean they have teeth, which is saying a lot for a blue bird.
Then again, NoLa is also a place where dirty means tasty. We can stroll through the French Market to buy a plate of Dirty Rice at the Cajun Cafe, which you might eat along with your Alligator Sausage Po’ Boy. Yummy, n’est pas?
Alligator Po' Boy anybody? Get one at the Cajun Cafe in the French Market
After you’ve eaten your share of Gator, you say you want to do some dancing to work off those Cajun calories. So, we point our feet to Frenchman’s Street. Before we get there, at the corner of Decatur and Esplanade, we’ll pass the BMC club. From the look of their artwork (below), they sure like to swing.
But since we’re going on to Frenchman, we’re going to have to cross over Esplanade at that corner, go past the firehouse on the right hand side and continue towards the left down Frenchman Street.
BMC Club - 504 Esplanade
Frenchman has tons of clubs and is known as Bourbon Street (minus strip clubs, thank you very much) for the locals and those in the know.
It's all about the mermaids and jesters on Frenchman Street
I don’t know the name of the club whose doorway I photographed (above) but we can call it The Mermaid. Remember, in NoLa, you get extra points for no signage, or if you’re place is very hard to find, and especially if it looks run down. This club qualifies in a few of those categories so it must be fantastic inside.
Dark Meat Fried Chicken Special
But look! Across the street we could have had Jamalaya Dark Meat Fried Chicken and Greens on special today. Too bad we ate that Alligator Po’ Boy, now we’re full…
Electric Ladyland Tattoo - Frenchman Street
Oh gosh, I told you not to go drinking with Earl and Bobby Joe, those guys are bird brains! It’s no surprise you wound up at the Electric Ladyland Tattoo parlor on Frenchman Street. Thank goodness they have a sign in the window (not shown here) that says No Drunks. Whew, you almost wound up with that mermaid on your forearm.
You can hardly stand up anymore with all that dancing and those shots of bourbon you drank. Let’s head on home…
Possible Side Effects
Wow, I should have never let you convince me to go for a beer at the Saint, that after-hours place on St. Mary Street near Magazine. As we saw from the “possible side effects” sticker on their dumpster while you puked alongside it, there is some truth in advertising.
Today’s petite photo study of Magazine Street began somewhere around the Jackson Avenue intersection heading in the direction of Audobon Park.
This is a totally different neighborhood (as you can see) from my study of Magazine Street near the freeway overpass. Then again Magazine Street is 6 miles long and has its own bus route so it’s easy to understand how one area could look so different from another.
A blue beauty on Magazine Street
I know it’s December 20th and all good common sense would say it couldn’t be 80 degrees and muggy today, but I swear to you it was hot walking down the street in the sunshine. I only had on a short sleeve shirt and I still started sweating.
It’s impossible for me to imagine New Orleans in the summer based on this December weather, but if today is any indication, I’d say it’s got to be unbearable. Thank goodness I was surrounded by so many interesting sights I hardly noticed.
Did you know bicycles are apparently a “thing” here in NoLa? Well, they are. Everyone seems to have one and you see them everywhere chained to black wrought iron fences.
Three bicycles on a wrought iron fence - how NoLa!
Or perhaps chained to a bike rack, right near the corner…
Bicycle on the corner - Magazine St
you get the idea though.
But one of my favorite buildings in this stretch has got to be the Magazine Po’ Boy and Sandwich Shop. The building is truly an amazing piece of architecture (check out that gorgeous wrought iron balcony on the 2nd floor) and history, it’s a beauty!
Magazine Po' Boy Shop
And while I didn’t stop in to buy a sandwich, I want to show you the front of the local “Chinese Food” restaurant at the corner of Magazine and Andrew…
"Chinese Food" - corner of Magazine and Andrew
This places looks scary with it’s “rent this bench” sign and its wire mesh panels that go over the windows (painted dark blue or black I think). Well, this is the place everybody told me makes the absolute best Chinese food in town. It doesn’t even have a name!
Apparently you have to go in through that front door, past the convenience store in the front, and go to the back where there is a Chinese food counter. This kind of wierd instruction about “finding” a place is an intoxicant to a New Orleanian; they love all things hidden, especially out of the way food places no one but a local would know about.
I had already had my chicken fried steak lunch at Joey K’s further up Magazine Street (my verdict was “eh” – I wouldn’t recommend it) so I’ll have nothing to lose by going in this place at some point and trying the Chinese food. The gentleman outside in the white t-shirt and red sweater over his shoulder in the photo above also recommended the red beans and rice.
Somehow I think the worse a place looks outside, the better the food is supposed to be inside. This seems to be a NoLa thing too, like the bicyles. I’ll have to report back to you on the Chinese food – or other soul food sold here – in some other post.
Shadows and light on Magazine St
Everywhere you look here there’s a play of shadows and light, good and bad. The city itself is a study in contrasts. And everyday I have here is a new opportunity for me to see a new facet of New Orleans.
Now that I’ve been in New Orleans a little over a week now, I’m glad I made the decision to stay in a neighborhood (not a hotel) because I feel in touch with the rhythms of the locals, and local businesses than I would have if I stayed in a hotel in the French Quarter. This is important to me since I’m here for 3 weeks, not the typical 3 day tourist stay.
Near where I’m staying is St. Mary Street. It’s part of the Lower Garden District. St. Mary’s runs from the Mississippi River to St. Charles Avenue. Running along St. Mary are several neighborhoods, which if I had to decide where to say “one side or the other” was I’d choose Magazine Street because it is such a “busy” (all things being relative in New Orleans) street with a majority of the local restaurants, antique shops and art / photography galleries.
I’ve walked St. Mary many times now since I’ve arrived, and the more often I walk along the sidewalks I’m coming to know, the more I like it. Just like I did on Magazine Street a few blog posts back, I decided to take a few shots of St. Mary to give a flavor of the neighborhood.
Half Moon Bar - St Mary
Above: The afternoon light casts a stark shadow from the Half Moon Bar sign across the face of the building, on St. Mary Street. A few empty tables and chairs sit on the sidewalk because the bar is quiet in the afternoon during the week. On the weekends it perks up a bit more.
Lucky Ladle - corner of St Mary and Magazine
On the corner of St. Mary and Magazine, as you can see from the image above, the corner building is undergoing renovations. Two doors down is the Lucky Ladle, a great breakfast spot. I’ve eaten at the Lucky Ladle a few times already. In addition to the wonderful food and good service, the works of local artists hang on the walls, and I admit, I have a soft spot for such places.
The first time I went in I met Bob, a local who eats there all the time. We chatted for a while and he shared his stories about himself and the neighborhood, which was fun. Then Bob let it slip that he goes to the Lucky Ladle so often they named a special after him on the menu! (It’s called the Bob Special and I can report it is completely delicious.)
Strangely, I feel more like I’m in New York when I’m in this neighborhood than when I’m anywhere else in New Orleans, so far. I’ve mentioned this to a few people I’ve spoken to, and they say others say that about this neighborhood too.
Maybe it’s because many people are from out of town and it’s a big mix of locals and transplants, or maybe it’s because art galleries are mixed with restaurants and antique shops and funky looking people walking down the street now and again; I don’t know. But I like it.
Near the highway overpass intersection with Magazine Street (a few blocks walk from the Ogden Museum and Contemporary Art Center) there is a section of Magazine Street with the decayed remains of radiator shops, dilapidated lounges and abandoned buildings. While some people might look at these places and see something ugly, I think these places are beautiful when seen through a certain lens.
The images that follow are a small study I did of that section of Magazine Street.
Cotton Mill Water Tower - Magazine St
I admit, there is something particularly southern about a water tower with the words “Cotton Mill” on the side sitting atop a warehouse building. When you add in the charming New Orleans Street lamp, I couldn’t help but take this shot.
Crescent City Radiator Works - Magazine St
The Crescent City Radiator works sits on the edge of the Garden District side the overpass (the Cotton Mill tower sits on the Central Business District side). I loved the textures of the paint on the side of the building along with the decaying shutters on the roof.
Bridge Lounge - Magazine St
The Bridge Lounge was one of my favorite subjects on Magazine Street today. With the blue Ford pickup in the foreground and the highly textured green wood of the building, along with the leaning porch awnings, this is certainly a subject I’d come back to shoot again. If you look at the left hand side of the picture, you’ll notice a very old fashioned truck in an almost identical matching shade of green as the building. Kind of an amazing coincidence.
Yellow House and pigeons
I nearly walked right by this lot of pigeons scratching in the dirt but the sky cleared a bit and lit up the yellow house in the background and the juxtaposition of the sky, house and the pigeons in the foreground caught my eye.
Abandoned beauty - Magazine St
I found this abandoned building to have a beauty all its own. I imagine this particular building was one of the many buildings ravaged by the flood and for whatever reason it still has not been torn down. As you can (kind of) tell from the picture, the lot in front of the building has been scoured down to the concrete slab, and you cannot see from this image but the lots behind this building are also empty. I’m glad to say that this building was the only one I saw like this on Magazine Street.
Coca Cola on the porch - Magazine St
While it’s true some houses were still boarded up, but many others had bright and cheerful colors painted on them with plants and foliage on the porch along with beautiful columns or other architectural details. From talking to some of the people in the neighborhood I gather that Magazine Street has “come back” pretty well over the last 2 years or so, and many neighborhoods of the city continue to re-build themselves and improve.
Originally I thought the Ogden Museum of Southern Art , located on Camp Street, was free to visitors on Thursdays but I was mistaken. The Ogden is free to any resident of the state of Louisiana on Thursdays, but not a Yankee like me. I was also informed by the helpful desk clerk that the Ogden After Hours program (Thursday evenings between 6-8pm) requires a second admission fee 0f $10.
Travel Tip: However, despite the rain today, there was a silver lining. The Contemporary Art Center of New Orleans - which is directly across the street from the Ogden was offering a one day $10 “Prospect Pass” which included admission to both the CAC and the Ogden, as well as numerous galleries across the city as part of a group “Prospect” show.
I wish the CAC allowed photography inside their NOLA Today show on the 3rd floor, but alas they did not. The show was well curated and there was a lot of narrative work about New Orleans and artist’s interpretations of life in NoLa now. Of course, references to the flood were plentiful, and the art it inspired was moving. I recommend it highly, and NOLA Today will be on display until the end of January 2012.
Lovely mural on the side of the Contemporary Art Center of New Orleans, Camp St
Once I took in everything the CAC had to offer today, I went back across the street to the Ogden and I’m so glad I did.
The red and white building on the right is the Ogden and the really old building on the left is a Civil War Museum which I didn’t visit
The one reason I wanted to go to the Ogden was to see native New Orleans artists work and I’m happy to report the work of George Dureau, a well known NoLa French Quarter artist, was worth the visit alone.
Entrance piece (a self portrait by the artist) to the George Dureau exhibition at Ogden
I loved Dureau’s use of color and abstract figuration and I enjoyed the fact that he appears in nearly all of his own work as a model, which is intriguing and I think unusual.
Dureau self portrait red background
Other than the amazing Dureau exhibit, I was really astounded by the work of New Orleans photographer Josephine Sacabo. Her surrealistic negative images of women’s faces are hauntingly beautiful and inspiring. Her work (according to the biography on her website) is in MoMA in NY, the New Orleans Museum of Art – NOMA, the Smithsonian and the Library of Congress collections, just to name a few.
Sacabo piece on display at Ogden
To say the work I saw today was “crazy good” is not an understatement. I was excited by these more contemporary works, even though I thoroughly enjoyed NOMA and the sculpture gardens yesterday. Today I felt like I was putting fuel in my creative furnace as I continue to soak in what the city has to offer.
Another strong Sacabo piece at Ogden – woman with smoke
Although I’ve focused most of my diary entries on museums and art galleries almost exclusively for the first few days of my visit here, I think anyone can easily see why it’s so easy to get pulled in by the artistic heartbeat of New Orleans. The city is so old and has such a strong character, it makes sense to me that so many artists would call this place home.
A few years ago I went upstate New York and visited (among other locations) Lake Champlain. I found an adorable motel that sat right on the lake, and I rented my own bungalow for the night. Because I was right on the lake, I was treated to a gorgeous pink and purple sunset while looking at the Green Mountains of Vermont in the distance. Enjoy.
I was also informed by the helpful desk clerk that the Ogden After Hours program (Thursday evenings between 6-8pm) requires a second admission fee 0f $10.
